Welcome back to my SewAlong Series on the Brassie Joggers by Greenstyle Creations!
You can find the SewAlong here (Join Knitpop first if you aren’t already a member or the link won’t work).
Today we are printing our pattern, choosing options, and cutting fabric. If you don’t already have your pattern, you can get it here (but don’t forget to join the event for a discount code- expires 6/16/17).
Need help with choosing supplies? See my blog post on that HERE.
Printing
The Brassie Joggers are a no-trim pattern (love that!). This means that you don’t have to cut the edges off the pages before taping it together!
If you are printing at home, just align one page from left to right with the grey lines, overlapping as you go. Tape togther and cut! This pattern does NOT have size layers, so all sizes will print at once, but they are pretty easy to trace out. I like to use Swedish Tracing Paper to trace my patterns, as it folds and stores easily.
The Brassies DO have an option for mid or low rise in the layers- so you will want to select the option that you would like to sew. I prefer the mid rise, but this is a personal preference. I would recommend selecting one rise option when printing,r ather than printing both. Make sure you are printing the right type of file- A4 for international printers, and 8 1/2 by 11 for the US.
You can also print at a copy shop, like Staples or Kinkos. If you want to do this, you’ll want to select the “Large format file” and send it to your copyshop of choice. Then I like to roll them up and store them upright.
Check out my video tutorial on taping and printing the pattern:
Options:
- Length: Do you want shorts, capris or long pants?
- Waistband: Yoga waist (hack here) or standard jogger waist with drawstring and elastic (included in pattern)? The drawstring isn’t what holds them up (though its kept the baby from pantsing me a couple times!) so you can omit it if desired, and just use wider elastic.
- Rise: Low or mid rise. Here are a couple pictures showing how the mid rise hits me. Flower is my belly button.
Modifications for Fit:
- Height: Greenstyle drafts for a height of 5’8″. I’m a whopping 6″ shorter, so I take about 3 inches off the pants length when I sew them. The general rule of thumb is to take out/add 1/2″ for every inch shorter/taller you are than 5’8″. Of course, some of this depends on where you carry your height in your body. I have a normal torso and short legs, so this is usually where I have to remove length. I usually make the shorts 1.5″ shorter than the cut line on the pattern- I do this at the hem and its a matter of personal preference. If you are removing a lot of length (or adding it!) in the pattern, its best to spread it out over a couple places in the pattern.
Here’s an example from Val Brink of where she adds length for the shorts (since the lengthen/shorten line is farther down)
- Cuffs: If you are making the joggers with cuffs, you may want to measure your ankle or calf where they are going to hit, and compare that to the cuff measurement on the pattern piece. You want it to be about 80-90% of the circumphrence of your calf/ankle, so they stay put.
- Shorts: See a video of how I widen the inner leg seams for shorts below. I like to have my shorts a little looser in the legs, so I like this adjustment. If you want a more fitted thigh, you can skip it.
- Other Adjustments: You can find some common pants fitting adjustments here. These are a looser fit than a pair of skinny jeans, so don’t go overboard with the adjustments, but if you know you have an especially round booty or full tummy, this may help. Always make a muslin in some test fabric before cutting into the good stuff!
Don’t forget to post your pictures in the SewAlong Album!
Happy Sewing- and stay tuned for tomorrow!