Sooo….. you knew it wasn’t going to stop at my last Raglan Round-Up post didn’t you? So many patterns to compare, so little time! Today I’m going compare several that have a few unique details not found on other raglans, as well as some TNT raglan patterns.
The four I’ve chosen for this post are: Slim Fit Raglan by Patterns for Pirates (you knew I couldn’t leave that one out!), The Visby Top by Itch to Stitch, the Waterfall Raglan by Chalk and Notch, and the Love Notions Rockford Raglan.
As before, most were sewn straight out of the envelope, but if there were any modifications made, I’ll be sure to let you know!
Here’s a quick recap about my body size/shape: A little TMI about me and my body type, for comparison purposes: I’m an hourglass/pear shape, with a A/B cup bust and 5’2″ tall. Most of my height is in my torso (which really came in handy when I was carrying twins), so I never make adjustments to tops for my height- but I’ve got REALLY short legs!
Cliff Notes Version:
If you want the cliff notes version, before I get into the details, here’s a quick comparison chart:
|Patterns for Pirates Slim Fit Raglan||Waterfall Raglan by Chalk and Notch||Love Notions Rockford Raglan||Visby Raglan by Itch to Stitch|
|Printable pages/versions available||19 pages for main PDF pattern file, A4, Copyshop, US available||41 pages for all options. Letter, A4,
A0 versions available
|74 pages for all options Letter, A4 and Copyshop Included||24 pages (all options). A0, Copyshop, Letter|
|Sizes||XXS-3XL (bust 30”-54”)||0- 18 (32-44″ bust)||XS-3XL (bust 31-47 inches)||00-20 (31 1/8- 46″ bust)|
|Options included: sleeves||short, 3/4 hemmed or banded, long hemmed or banded||Short , 3/4, or long||Short, 3/4 or long sleeves||Long only, cuffed|
|Options included: hem type and length||shirt length (hits at mid-booty) and tunic length. Curved or straight||Ruffle hem, top or dress length||Asymmetrical hem, banded hem, curved hem||Curved or banded hem|
|Options included: neckline||Regular||Crew neck||Scoop neckline||Henley, crew, hooded henley, plain hood|
|Options included: other||Elbow Patches, front triangle patch||FBA pieces included|
|Add on pack||Yes $9.00. Includes traditional and crossover hood, kangaroo pocket, thumbhole cuffs, cowl neck, in seam pockets, and a variety of funnel neck options||No||No||No|
|Fit||Fitted at bust, semi fitted at waist and hips||Fitted in arms, very loose elsewhere||fitted at bust, swings out in “swing” views, semi fitted in other “straight” views||Semi-fitted in body, looser sleeves|
|Instructions: Line Drawings or Photographs||photos||Line drawings||Both||Line Drawings|
|Cost||$9, or $17 with add on pack included ( add on is $9 separately)||$12.00||$10||$12|
|Pattern Assembly||Overlap (non trim)||Trim pages||Overlap||Trim|
|Recommended Fabrics||Fabric with at least 30% stretch||Fabric with 50% stretch||Light to medium weight knits with 40% stretch. Stable knits such as cotton lycra are not recommended per pattern instructions||Lightweight 4 way stretch knit with 50% stretch in all directions|
The Nitty Gritty (Pattern breakdown!)
Now I’ll go into the specifics of my experiences with each pattern. Remember, this is just my perspective, so your mileage my vary, but hopefully it will give you a good idea of what’s unique about each, and how each one fits.
1) Slim Fit Raglan (Patterns for Pirates)
Fabric used: Brushed Poly from Knitpop and So Sew English
Size/Options: XXS graded to XS in the hips (them hips!), straight hem, Crossover hood add-on (available here)
Modifications made: None, aside from a little accidental shortening at the hem (see below!)
Thoughts: This pattern is a classic, for good reason. The fit is just right, especially on hourglass figures, which is generally what P4P drafts for.
It doesn’t cling anywhere, but skims my curves in a very flattering way, if I do say so myself! I love the add-on pack for the crossover hood (so easy to make!), and a regular hood, funnel collar, button up funnel collar, ruched funnel collar, cowl neck, kangaroo pocket, inseam pockets and thumb hole cuffs are also included in the add on.
While some other pattern designers offer many of these extras as included in their raglan patterns (Hey June, New Horizons), I think the SFR, as it’s known in the massive Patterns for Pirates group, is worth a serious look for its great fit and wide variety of options for add-ons and hacks.
I’ve made at least 5 of these, in everything from brushed poly to sweatshirt fleece, and they are all instant favorites- the crossover hood is deeper than any other I’ve found and I love how it keeps my neck warm! Here’s an example in light-weight french terry from this post:
And another in a thicker double-knit (see this post for details):
P4P drafts for a height of 5’5″- so if you’re on the taller side, you might need to add some length. I don’t generally mess with my tops, but I confess this one had a little strip mis-matching incident at the bottom that was fixed by chopping off an inch, and taking a shallower hem, so I technically made a small adjustment on this one for my 5’2″ height.
Hacks: A quick search of the Facebook group reveals many hacks- here are a few I found that were blogged/vlogged:
Cold Shoulder Hack, Twist back hack (technically for the ragdoll, but could be adapted for the SFR)
Raglan accent patch (found at So Sew English Sew A Longs)
Size/Options Sewn: Size 0
Modifications: Took in the sides about 7″
Thoughts: This pattern is elegant and versatile, and stands out in a sea of raglan look-alikes with the flowy silhouette and the beautiful bottom ruffle. I made it a few months ago in metallic knit from Sly Fox Fabrics, and have been loving it every since (see the original post here)
I’ve styled it as a dressy party top, but it can also be great with sneakers for errands! It does have a TON of ease built in- when I first made it I felt like I was wearing a tent, but quickly came to love it after I took it in on the sides.
On a taller person, this might not be an issue, but I wasn’t comfortable until I had removed significant inches from the width of the bodice. You can see it is still swingy here, which I like, but no longer overwhelms me. If you’re making it, you might want to consider sizing down a couple of sizes.
Fabric Used: Sweater knit from Sincerely Rylee for the sleeves/cuffs, olive rayon jersey for the body
Size/Options Sewn: XS, View B (Shirt length with swing)
Modifications: Removed 1.5″ in length, for height (I don’t do this with all my tops, but it was necessary with this one).
Thoughts: The Rockford Raglan is unique because it includes a swing view, in both tunic and top length, in addition to a straight fit with an asymmetric overlay and a more traditional banded bottom view. I made the swing view during testing.
I really struggled to get the sleeves/underarm to fit right on this one during testing, but it’s been well-received in the pattern community, and also offers a full-bust piece, for women who have a larger than C cup bust, making a FBA unnecessary. Full disclosure: the pattern was changed slightly after my round of testing, so this may not reflect the current fit exactly.
In comparison to the waterfall raglan, it has a much less dramatic swing, and less ease throughout. The other views are cut straighter on the sides (see the listing here for more tester pics of the different views).
The shoulder seams are farther toward the shoulders than other raglan patterns, for a slightly different look. Honestly, I think this emphasizes my small chest, making it look wider and flatter than it is, which is part of my ambivalence about this style. I think it looks great on others though!
Fabric used: Wool jersey from Fashion Fabrics Club for body, hacci for hood lining and cuffs/bands
Size/Options Sewn: Size 0, View C (henley placket with hood and banded bottom)
Modifications: Slimmed sleeves slightly (I tend to have skinny arms), removed 2″ in length from the bottom (ITS drafts for a height of 5’6″). Used grommets instead of buttons.
Thoughts: There aren’t too many Henley option raglans out there (New Horizons is the only other one I that comes to mind), and I love the Visby for the crystal clear instructions and clean finish on the inside (for example, a hood seam binding piece is included in the pattern, to cover up that unsightly serged seam!). The extra long cuffs are another nice detail, and a crew neck Henley and basic raglan are also included. (Check out my original post here for more details)
This pattern only includes long sleeves- so while a short sleeve wouldn’t be difficult to hack, it’s something to consider if you want a pattern that will span the seasons and don’t like to make that modification yourself. I love the look of a short sleeve hooded tee, as impractical as it may be, so it’s on my list! From what I can tell, I2S tends to draft toward an hourglass typed figure- and the seams on this are fairly curved, so if you’re more rectangular you would just want to grade out at the waist to match your measurements.
Hacks: This one is brand new, so no hacks yet, but I’ve got a few ideas!
Well, that’s all for now- what did you think? Any new favorites?
My next post will reveal some more raglans from Jalie, Ellie and Mac, Grainline and other popular designers- so stay tuned!
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