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Raglan Round-Up (Part 2)

Sooo….. you knew it wasn’t going to stop at my last Raglan Round-Up post didn’t you? So many patterns to compare, so little time! Today I’m going compare several that have a few unique details not found on other raglans, as well as some TNT raglan patterns.

The four I’ve chosen for this post are: Slim Fit Raglan by Patterns for Pirates (you knew I couldn’t leave that one out!), The Visby Top by Itch to Stitch, the Waterfall Raglan by Chalk and Notch, and the Love Notions Rockford Raglan.

As before, most were sewn straight out of the envelope, but if there were any modifications made, I’ll be sure to let you know!

Here’s a quick recap about my body size/shape: A little TMI about me and my body type, for comparison purposes: I’m an hourglass/pear shape, with a A/B cup bust and 5’2″ tall. Most of my height is in my torso (which really came in handy when I was carrying twins), so I never make adjustments to tops for my height- but I’ve got REALLY short legs!

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Cliff Notes Version:

If you want the cliff notes version, before I get into the details, here’s a quick comparison chart:

1
Patterns for Pirates Slim Fit Raglan Waterfall Raglan by Chalk and Notch Love Notions Rockford Raglan Visby Raglan by Itch to Stitch
2
Printable pages/versions available 19 pages for main PDF pattern file, A4, Copyshop, US available 41 pages for all options. Letter, A4,
A0 versions available
74 pages for all options Letter, A4 and Copyshop Included 24 pages (all options). A0, Copyshop, Letter
3
Layers Yes Yes Yes Yes
4
Sizes XXS-3XL (bust 30”-54”) 0- 18 (32-44″ bust) XS-3XL (bust 31-47 inches) 00-20 (31 1/8- 46″ bust)
5
Finished Measurements No Yes Yes Yes
6
Options included: sleeves short, 3/4 hemmed or banded, long hemmed or banded Short , 3/4, or long Short, 3/4 or long sleeves Long only, cuffed
7
Options included: hem type and length shirt length (hits at mid-booty) and tunic length. Curved or straight Ruffle hem, top or dress length Asymmetrical hem, banded hem, curved hem Curved or banded hem
8
Options included: neckline Regular Crew neck Scoop neckline Henley, crew, hooded henley, plain hood
9
Options included: other Elbow Patches, front triangle patch FBA pieces included
10
Add on pack Yes $9.00. Includes traditional and crossover hood, kangaroo pocket, thumbhole cuffs, cowl neck, in seam pockets, and a variety of funnel neck options No No No
11
Seam Allowance 1/2” ⅜” 3/8″ 3/8”
12
Fit Fitted at bust, semi fitted at waist and hips Fitted in arms, very loose elsewhere fitted at bust, swings out in “swing” views, semi fitted in other “straight” views Semi-fitted in body, looser sleeves
13
Instructions: Line Drawings or Photographs photos Line drawings Both Line Drawings
14
Cost $9, or $17 with add on pack included ( add on is $9 separately) $12.00 $10 $12
15
Pattern Assembly Overlap (non trim) Trim pages Overlap Trim
16
Recommended Fabrics Fabric with at least 30% stretch Fabric with 50% stretch Light to medium weight knits with 40% stretch. Stable knits such as cotton lycra are not recommended per pattern instructions Lightweight 4 way stretch knit with 50% stretch in all directions

The Nitty Gritty (Pattern breakdown!)

Now I’ll go into the specifics of my experiences with each pattern. Remember, this is just my perspective, so your mileage my vary, but hopefully it will give you a good idea of what’s unique about each, and how each one fits.

1) Slim Fit Raglan (Patterns for Pirates)

Fabric used: Brushed Poly from Knitpop and So Sew English

Size/Options: XXS graded to XS in the hips (them hips!), straight hem, Crossover hood add-on (available here)

Modifications made: None, aside from a little accidental shortening at the hem (see below!)

Thoughts: This pattern is a classic, for good reason. The fit is just right, especially on hourglass figures, which is generally what P4P drafts for.

It doesn’t cling anywhere, but skims my curves in a very flattering way, if I do say so myself! I love the add-on pack for the crossover hood (so easy to make!), and a regular hood, funnel collar, button up funnel collar, ruched funnel collar, cowl neck, kangaroo pocket, inseam pockets and thumb hole cuffs are also included in the add on.

While some other pattern designers offer many of these extras as included in their raglan patterns (Hey June, New Horizons), I think the SFR, as it’s known in the massive Patterns for Pirates group, is worth a serious look for its great fit and wide variety of options for add-ons and hacks.

I’ve made at least 5 of these, in everything from brushed poly to sweatshirt fleece, and they are all instant favorites- the crossover hood is deeper than any other I’ve found and I love how it keeps my neck warm! Here’s an example in light-weight french terry from this post:

And another in a thicker double-knit (see this post for details):

P4P drafts for a height of 5’5″- so if you’re on the taller side, you might need to add some length. I don’t generally mess with my tops, but I confess this one had a little strip mis-matching incident at the bottom that was fixed by chopping off an inch, and taking a shallower hem, so I technically made a small adjustment on this one for my 5’2″ height.

Hacks: A quick search of the Facebook group reveals many hacks- here are a few I found that were blogged/vlogged:

Off the shoulder hack

Keyhole Hack

Cold Shoulder Hack, Twist back hack (technically for the ragdoll, but could be adapted for the SFR)

Striped Sleeves Hack

Lace Cold Shoulder (from Surge Fabrics)

Raglan Nursing Mod

Raglan accent patch (found at So Sew English Sew A Longs)

2) Chalk and Notch Waterfall Raglan

Size/Options Sewn: Size 0

Modifications: Took in the sides about 7″

Thoughts: This pattern is elegant and versatile, and stands out in a sea of raglan look-alikes with the flowy silhouette and the beautiful bottom ruffle. I made it a few months ago in metallic knit from Sly Fox Fabrics, and have been loving it every since (see the original post here)

I’ve styled it as a dressy party top, but it can also be great with sneakers for errands! It does have a TON of ease built in- when I first made it I felt like I was wearing a tent, but quickly came to love it after I took it in on the sides.

On a taller person, this might not be an issue, but I wasn’t comfortable until I had removed significant inches from the width of the bodice. You can see it is still swingy here, which I like, but no longer overwhelms me. If you’re making it, you might want to consider sizing down a couple of sizes.

Woven Hack by Little Cumquat

Cropped boxy top by Ammon Lane

Sleeveless woven Dress – Miss Castolinhos

Waterfall/Metro hoodie Mash-up by Little Heart Threads

3) Love Notions Rockford Raglan

Fabric Used: Sweater knit from Sincerely Rylee for the sleeves/cuffs, olive rayon jersey for the body

Size/Options Sewn: XS, View B (Shirt length with swing)

Modifications: Removed 1.5″ in length, for height (I don’t do this with all my tops, but it was necessary with this one).

Thoughts: The Rockford Raglan is unique because it includes a swing view, in both tunic and top length, in addition to a straight fit with an asymmetric overlay and a more traditional banded bottom view. I made the swing view during testing.

I really struggled to get the sleeves/underarm to fit right on this one during testing, but it’s been well-received in the pattern community, and also offers a full-bust piece, for women who have a larger than C cup bust, making a FBA unnecessary. Full disclosure: the pattern was changed slightly after my round of testing, so this may not reflect the current fit exactly.

In comparison to the waterfall raglan, it has a much less dramatic swing, and less ease throughout. The other views are cut straighter on the sides (see the listing here for more tester pics of the different views).

The shoulder seams are farther toward the shoulders than other raglan patterns, for a slightly different look. Honestly, I think this emphasizes my small chest, making it look wider and flatter than it is, which is part of my ambivalence about this style. I think it looks great on others though!

Hacks:

Swing Dress Hack by My Heart Will Sew On

4) Itch To Stitch Visby Raglan

Fabric used: Wool jersey from Fashion Fabrics Club for body, hacci for hood lining and cuffs/bands

Size/Options Sewn: Size 0, View C (henley placket with hood and banded bottom)

Modifications: Slimmed sleeves slightly (I tend to have skinny arms), removed 2″ in length from the bottom (ITS drafts for a height of 5’6″). Used grommets instead of buttons.

Thoughts: There aren’t too many Henley option raglans out there (New Horizons is the only other one I that comes to mind), and I love the Visby for the crystal clear instructions and clean finish on the inside (for example, a hood seam binding piece is included in the pattern, to cover up that unsightly serged seam!). The extra long cuffs are another nice detail, and a crew neck Henley and basic raglan are also included. (Check out my original post here for more details)

This pattern only includes long sleeves- so while a short sleeve wouldn’t be difficult to hack, it’s something to consider if you want a pattern that will span the seasons and don’t like to make that modification yourself. I love the look of a short sleeve hooded tee, as impractical as it may be, so it’s on my list! From what I can tell, I2S tends to draft toward an hourglass typed figure- and the seams on this are fairly curved, so if you’re more rectangular you would just want to grade out at the waist to match your measurements.

Hacks: This one is brand new, so no hacks yet, but I’ve got a few ideas!

Conclusion:

Well, that’s all for now-  what did you think? Any new favorites?

My next post will reveal some more raglans from Jalie, Ellie and Mac, Grainline and other popular designers- so stay tuned!

Want to make sure you don’t miss the other posts? Subscribe to my blog here, and follow me on Facebook and Instagram here! Curious about the rest of my closet (hint: it isn’t all raglans)!  You can lurk my closet on Pinterest here!

Note: This post contains affiliate links. The fabric/time to make a dozen or more raglans doesn’t come free, though I admit it was fun. I’d love it if you clicked on any of my links- there’s no cost to you, but it helps me keep things running.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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6 Comments

  1. Audrey on March 8, 2018 at 4:54 pm

    Another lovely post about Raglans! Still have the same thoughts about the angle/placement of the shoulder seams as in your last post. Such a nice wardrobe you are building!

    • Sarah on March 13, 2018 at 12:11 pm

      Thank you!

  2. Debbie Davis on March 9, 2018 at 6:19 am

    Can you detail how you do your neckline bindings? At least in the pics they look so clean! I always question if I should coverstitch with two needles on the binding, one needle on and one off, or both off (obv that is the practical choice for bands). I think every shirt I do is different!

    • Sarah on March 13, 2018 at 12:11 pm

      I usually serve on RST, then fold over and coverstitch, so there is a raw edge on the back that’s finished by the coverstitching, and it’s not too fiddly. Both needles are on the binding, on the narrow setting. Hope that helps!

  3. Sherri on March 9, 2018 at 7:47 am

    I started following you because we have similar body shapes . Sometimes it is hard to know what pattern will look like on me, but when I see it on you I get a pretty good idea. Also I really like your pattern and fabric choices.

    • Sarah on March 13, 2018 at 12:09 pm

      I do this too- it always helps to get a jump start on potential fitting changes too. Glad to help!

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